Postcards from the edge of the catwalk

I'm always happy when a decent fashion book lands in my lap on Christmas Day - gives me an excuse to swerve the washing-up - so if anyone out there is thinking of buying me a present, Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk by Iain R Webb is on the wish-list. The book of photographs spans over three decades and provides a snapshot of Webb's life as a fabulous fashion journalist. Last week That's Not My Age caught up with the lovely IRW for a quick chat:

TNMA: What is your most memorable show, ever, and why?

IRW: I think you always remember your first time! My first fashion show experience was in 1977 while I was doing a pre-BA foundation course at Salisbury Art College. I opened the end-of-year graduation show with three outfits I had designed and made. The attitude was very punky so I got the models to wear dirty old raincoats over my designs and ‘flash’ the audience. My looks were made from shocking pink, purple, white and ice blue nylon (actually hot air balloon fabric), a handful of sequins and some plastic tubing. Quite bonkers!

TNMA: Who is your favourite catwalk model?

IRW: I have loads of favourite catwalk models from over the years. I think so much depends on the context. It works best when the designer chooses the right girl for their clothes/narrative rather than just that model-of-the-moment thing. I like models with a certain attitude. Kirsten Owen, Leslie Winer, Teri Toye, Amanda Cazalet, Kristen McMenamy, Jade Parfitt, Jodie Kidd and, of course, the Supers. And the ‘actresses’ like Shalom Harlow and Erin O’Connor. I have been lucky to work with Erin since her first days in the industry. Whenever I hear Suede’s She’s In Fashion I think of her: ‘And she’s as similar as you can get, to the shape of a cigarette.’ And I love the catwalk girls from my early days – Sheila Ming, Jane Spencer, Michele Paradise, Sayoko Yamaguchi and the genius Pat Cleveland. When I left St Martins Art School I worked for Zandra Rhodes and was involved in a late-night fitting with Pat. At one point, wearing just her knickers, she declared, ‘ Isn’t it strange how the best dance you ever do is the one for yourself in the bathroom mirror.' And don’t get me started on male models…




TNMA: What's your least favourite aspect of the fashion week circus?

IRW: I hate traveling. Not a good start. But the worst part has to be the sheer physical crush. I often felt hemmed in and claustrophobic. Some of the venues were a disaster movie just waiting to happen! I also dislike the unreasoned hysteria that appears to set in as soon as the invitation arrives or, worse, doesn’t. How grown men and women can lose all sense of proportion (something I have seen a lot of designers do too!) I find it amusing now to see quite how dressed up the audience has gotten. My job as a fashion editor was to see what the designers had to offer not to be part of the show myself…

TNMA: Who's the friendliest person on the front row?

IRW: One of the best things about doing the shows is that I got to hook up with all manner of fabulous fashion freaks who love the frocks as much as me. The unrelenting seasonal schedule at least means you know you’ll get to see old friends. I always love to meet up with Anna Piaggi and I miss Isabella Blow and Amy Spindler.



The Brit pack always like to have fun so I’d hang out most with best-buddy Susannah Frankel, Hilary Alexander and Colin McDowell (Mr McD and I would always go see a Broadway show during the NYC collections), but I guess I was most excited when I got to sit next to all-time hero and heartthrob Peter Beard, the anthropologist. Check out his astonishing notebooks and collages.

TNMA: And the nastiest?

IRW: Like I would air kiss and tell!?!

TNMA: Is there an iconic show that you wished you'd seen?

IRW: I would love to have seen a Perry Ellis show in New York, preferably his A/W 1978 collection when he coined the Slouch silhouette. It’s my all-time favourite look. I also would have liked to be at Bill Gibb’s debut fashion show at the Oriental Club in 1972. The BBC filmed the show for a TV documentary series. I have watched it over and over again till it almost feels like I was there.

TNMA: What do you think is going to happen to fashion week/the catwalk show now that we have live streaming?

IRW: Even though live streaming can reach a huge audience the days of the catwalk show aren’t numbered yet. Nothing can quite compare to the first hand experience. If anything they might scale down and become more intimate (like the couture salon shows) thereby cutting cost while making the privileged few invited guests feel extra special indeed. These shows could then be streamed worldwide. There are so many ways to present fashion on a smaller scale – I loved it when Rifat Ozbek used to show his designs on just three models in his showroom. Perhaps this age of austerity will focus designers to be a tad more creative in their ‘catwalk’ presentations.

TNMA: How did you manage to remember all the facts for the book? Do you have an amazing memory like Keith Richards?!

IRW: I have always carried a notebook and like to draw the looks sent out by the designer. It kind of processes them in my brain. These sketches I annotate with key information about colour and fabric but also mood inspiration, soundtrack, staging, models and who is sitting front row. Compiling the index for the book was at times like an Agatha Christie whodunit. There are still a couple of images in the book that have no captions. I also think I might have a photographic memory although as I get older this is beginning to fade like an old Polaroid!

TNMA: And last question - do you still get the buzz when you go to a show or would you rather stay at home and watch it on style.com?

IRW: Over the years covering the grueling New York, London, Milan, Paris collections trip twice a year, along with the haute couture shows and menswear, there have been times I wished I was at home on the sofa eating baked beans on toast and watching Coronation Street. But, I still love the frocks…



Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk by Iain R Webb is published by ACC Editions, priced £24.95 and is available at all major bookshops and online from www.antique-acc.com



Check out Iain's top 10 fashion books for students - and other fashion fanatics here


Photos from Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk - courtesy of Marian Kihogo and

Can Middle-Aged Men Have Long Hair?

Still thinking about the The New York Times middle-aged/long-hair debate - but having concluded that as far as women are concerned, age is unimportant - it's quality, condition and a decent cut that matter - let's turn our attention to men.

Apart from rock stars, fashion designers and er, X Factor contestants (that's Wagner in the photo, not John Galliano), does long-hair really work for men of a certain age? I put it to the Blog Widower - shortish hair, longer on top, not much grey - and he said, "The two words that summarise my despair about this country used to be `The Monarchy', now they're `Top Gear.'"



Mmm..I can see where he's coming from but that's more than enough of smug middle-aged men showing off in fast cars/ front of Simon Cowell, wearing crap clothes and ladies' hair. Time to ask the experts.


The case for:

Author and style commentator, Paul Gorman



'I like long hair on older men - the Grinderman outback/maniac thing with a suit always looks fab.'



'When I was 38-41, I liked my hair long and straggly behind the ears. I was inspired by these guys I saw in Asia, in a Singapore shopping precinct. Skinny as hell with long hair, vests, crosses, sarongs and sandals and a sprinkling of tattoos. It felt right for a couple of years but it became problematic in London in the winter - too cold to dry it naturally. So I gradually reduced it and then went back to the quiff. But I might do it again - goes well with a beard once the temples have started to go and you get coarse greys.'


The case against:

Fashion writer and historian, Iain R Webb



'I think the short answer is short. Long hair on a, ahem, middle-aged man is definitely aging. I went through the classic mid-life crisis thing when I left my last full-time job. I went all hippie and grew my hair. Even though I work in fashion and have sported styles that had breezed my collar - think Surf Dude meets Coupe Sauvage - suddenly I had flowing locks that looked like I'd lost my way at Glastonbury Fayre in 1971! Thankfully, I now have a short back and sides with a side-part. I am actually thinking of getting a shorter spiky cut. The only problem: when you have a sharp short style you have to keep getting it trimmed to maintain the look.'

The verdict
As with middle-aged women, if the man has got a good image to start with, like Nick Cave and Warren Ellis, then long hair can look amazing. I simply can't imagine Iggy Pop with short hair. But for grown-up men without a rock and roll lifestyle, Iain's right. You can't beat the traditional short back and sides. Like Jon Hamm in The Town or the most recent episodes of Mad Men when Don Draper's super-slick image is slowly sliding off a bar stool.



Model, Andre Van Noord in the latest issue of Vogue Hommes International has a slightly longer version of this versatile 'do.'




Oh go on then, let's have one more photo...




Personally, I can't imagine going out with a man whose hair is longer than mine, Mr TNMA spends enough time in the bathroom as it is! What do you think?



Signed copies of Paul Gorman's latest book, The Life & Work of Barney Bubbles, are available here

And I'll be blogging about Iain R Webb's new book, Postcards From the Edge of the Catwalk soon. Promise.

Photos

Wagner: Rex Features
Top Gear: The Guardian
Paul Gorman: Sarah Lee
Iain R Webb: The Independent
Jon Hamm: The Guardian

Fashion beyond forty

Oh I'm more than happy to blather on for days on end about my favourite topic - style at any age - even happier when someone else does it for me! Especially when it's a proper fashion expert. This week, fabulous fashion writer and all-round lovely person, Iain R Webb talks to That's Not My Age about fashion beyond forty:

Having worked as fashion director of Harper's & Queen and The Times my readers were looking for fashion that was wider reaching than simply catwalk driven trends.

My best advice would be to take a look at what's going on at the collections but essentially do your own thing, pick and choose what suits you. Stylish women and designers with any kind of personality and longevity (from Coco Chanel to Dries Van Noten) are the ones who established their look early on and have developed it regardless of fashion's comings and goings. Sometimes they collide with fashion but more often than not they remain quite sensibly aloof from the madness.



The great thing about being over 40 (ahem!) is that you're pretty sure of your own style and shouldn't be too bothered with the need to jump on every trend being pushed by an industry hungry for new, new, new. Let the teen queens, pop princesses and their stylists tear each others hair extensions out over who was first off the mark with 'nude' or 'tribal'!

During my time in the industry I have been lucky to work with many amazingly stylish women. One of the highlights: At Harper's & Queen I got to style Honor Blackman (the original Avengers action girl) for a 1960s inspired fashion shoot. It was a thrill to work with someone who was so self-assured and down right sexy! I dressed her in leather trousers (I think they were classic Agnes B) and unfussy Chanel-type jackets that reflected her Avengers look. Timeless fashion.







Indulge in those coveted investment pieces. Although you might automatically think investment pieces need to be classic and perhaps a tad boring I actually feel that they should be anything that you REALLY love. Something that you will take delight in forever, regardless of fashions whims. Something that is special. That might be that perfect plain cashmere sweater (if you find one that suits I would recommend the old trick of buying two) or an original 1920s Fortuny evening cape, 1970s Bill Gibb knit kimono coat or a 1980s Vivienne Westwood Nostalgia of Mud sheepskin (check out Kerry Taylor Auctions or any local vintage fashion fairs) - a one-off that will garner you compliments and a little envy whenever you wear it! Enjoy!




For more fashion beyond forty check out 'In your forties and nothing to wear?' An interview with J.Crew, creative director, Jenna Lyons, 41, by Lisa Armstrong at timesonline.

Actually, I can't let this go without sticking my oar in...That's Not My Age has had a J. Crew preview (the collection is set to launch in the UK, in May at Net-a-Porter) and here are my favourite pieces:




And in true Dries Van Noten-style, I will be wearing the boyfriend fatigue jacket and stripe boat neck dress together. Thank you Iain R Webb!


Iain R Webb's latest book, Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk (ACC Publishing) - a personal photographic portfolio with over 500 images, spanning three decades, 'I took them all from my front row seat or at parties/events surrounding the international collections brouhaha!' - is out September/October.



Photos
Dries Van Noten catwalk shots: style.com

Honor Blackman
Polaroid: Cindy Palmano courtesy of the lovely Iain R Webb
Portrait 1: honorblackman.co.uk
Portrait 2: The Independent

Fortuny dress: 20th Century Fashion. Valerie Mendes/Amy de la Haye



PS How gorgeous is Honor Blackman?